[Note: This is part 2 (obviously!) of a two-part post (but there may yet be more!) about my experiences while living in Taiwan during Chinese New Year back in 2000. In case you missed it, here’s part 1.]
What’s a Night Market?
My favorite and most interesting places to visit in any Taiwan city were always the Night Markets. What’s a Night Market, you ask? Well… they’re a sortof flea market/ garage sale/ sidewalk sale/ carnival/ food festival, all rolled up into one. And oh yeah; they’re only (usually) open at night.
They are held on a street that’s blocked off from automobile traffic (although occasional motorcycles and bicycles are a constant hazard). During the day, the street may or may not look almost normal, but at night, the stores along the street (and anyone else who can squeeze in) simply move their wares outside. They are usually open until very early in the morning.
Street markets have an interesting atmosphere, in more ways than one. First of all, it’s sortof like walking through a kaleidescope. Lots of colorful clothes, various and sundry wares, and food stalls of everything imaginable (and some that aren’t!) are pushed at you from every side. Then, of course, there’s the smells – quite an amazing variety, and combinations thereof – at every turn!
Some Night Markets are more-or-less permanent; one in Taipei had a permanent weather cover built over the street. In other cities and towns, though, they only have them during special occasions, like New Year’s.
The Hsinchu Night Market
The week before New Year’s (which was on Feb. 5 in 2000), the city was literally in a shopping frenzy. You could tell the difference; the entire downtown area was filled with late-night shoppers.
Unlike Taipei, which has 4 or 5 well established and permanent night markets, Hsinchu only has one. It’s only there for about two weeks during the New Year’s celebrations. Luckily, it was only a few blocks from my hotel, which made it easy for me to enjoy.
One of the main entry points started at the big traffic circle around Hsinchu’s ancient Eastern Gate. The market extended from there (and down a few other cross streets) for maybe a half a mile or more. In this photo, it was down the street you can see through the gate’s arch, right next to the Kentucky Fried Chicken place (always a “safe” place to eat!)
On either side of most downtown streets are regular shops; hundreds of them were within the length of the Night Market alone. (Plus there’s lots of other streets with just as many.) Since this was a “special occasion” market, it not only stayed open for business until the wee hours, but was open all day, too.
The market consisted of two long row of booths set up in the middle of a couple of downtown streets that were closed to cars for the duration. Occasionally, though, someone drove his scooter through, beeping and honking his horn and causing all manner of (mostly good-natured) mayhem. Walkways on each side of the stalls were packed with people; I could barely get through.
Choices, Choices, Choices
It was almost unbelievable, the variety of wares to be found!
Some of the vendors used PA systems to shout out their sales pitches (even though most of their customers were only 3 feet away!) When you add the fireworks and firecrackers going off most of the night, the noise got pretty deafening.
One of the largest booths had a huge pile of ski jackets, pullovers, etc. on a big table. The salesman was shouting at the top of his lungs over the PA system while everyone inside was poking, grabbing, shoving, and pushing each other like a girdle sale at Macy’s. The reason: price per jacket - about $5.
Let’s see… there were also cell phone accessories, music CD’s and cassettes, musical instruments, books, assorted trinkets you might remember seeing with the label “made in Taiwan”, blankets, stuffed animals, scarves, tropical fish, cosmetics, gambling machines, and of course lottery tickets.
Other stalls had various types of: food, such as sausages, noodles, various vegetables, ducks (whole or parts, raw, dried, stuffed, fried, baked, roasted, barbecued, etc.; it was like Bubba Gump’s, except it was, you know, for ducks), pastries, ice cream cones, drinks, an Icee vendor, sweets & candies, dumplings, and many foods I couldn’t recognize at all. One particular area of the food market was called “snake alley” because of the, er, exotic foodstuffs available there. ‘Nuff said.
Along with those were selections of teas, herbs, flowers, and plants of all kinds, fortune tellers, toys, blouses, shirts, ties, socks, shoes, coats and jackets, pants, hats, wood and stone carvings, Taoist and Buddhist idols, temple-related things like incense and ghost money (burned as an offering to their ancestors), purses, belts, plus all kinds of backpacks.
Then there were various medical related things, like massage chairs, back massagers, back scratchers, actual Shiatsu massages, women’s and men’s, er, “enhancers” (but let’s not go there!), several doctors, acupressure and/or acupuncture clinics, and perhaps the most surprising – someone practicing dentistry, right there on the street!
In addition to this, there were lots of guys selling things out of suitcases. Stuff like watches, jewelry, bracelets rings, gloves, sunglasses, eyeglasses, little glass critters, and — well, you get the idea.
And to think; this was only on the first block!
Just to make it really interesting, there were also quite a few stalls promoting one or another presidential candidate for the upcoming election to be held in March (rumors, mudslinging, and outright accusations promised to turn the event into a real dogfight).
About a quarter of the vendors were selling New Year’s stuff - decorations, bamboo shoots (supposed to be good luck to have them in your house), paper dragons, etc.
The bottom line is, business is the name of the game, and making money the ultimate goal. Everybody seemed to be having a great time, though, so I would call it a success.
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I guess the real bottom line, though, is that no matter where I am in the world, I’ve found that people are, well, still people. They love to have a good time, enjoy themselves; and just because they look a little different than I do - well, we’re really all the same inside.
I will always treasure my experiences in Taiwan as a wonderful, growing time in my life. Although I was almost exactly opposite my hometown on the globe, thanks to email and occasional phone calls I could still stay connected with Mrs. MZM.
But the place - wow, the place was utterly fascinating!
Note: If you found these articles interesting, let me know; there’s a lot more to tell! A big part of the Chinese New Year celebration is the Lantern Festival, of which the one in Taipei was the absolute biggest and most extravagant. I’ll be writing more about that amazing event in future posts.
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